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China 240A ESC arrived defect

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wyetuck88
ket2175
laneboysrc
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China 240A ESC arrived defect Empty China 240A ESC arrived defect

Post by laneboysrc Fri 24 Aug 2012 - 21:34

Hi folks,

22 days after ordering the "240A ESC for 1:10 and 1:8 RC cars" it arrived. It is the same one as Master Liew is running in his TF2. SGD 20 incl shipping from China.

Unfortunately when I took it out of the bubble-envelope the heat sink was already detached. Just contacted the seller -- lets see what they say...

China 240A ESC arrived defect P1240410

Since it was "open" a few thoughts:
The heat sink is glued onto the case with what looks to be hot glue. So when the heat sink gets hot the glue will eventually give anyway...
There is a small thermal pad, which is quite thick (= not good for heat transfer). The thermal pad touches only 4 of the 10 FETs (the things that switch the power to the motor). That's a very bad design, basically makes the heat sink worthless as 6 of the FETs get no cooling at all.

Inside the ESC are two circuit boards (PCB) stacked on top of each other. The top one holds the FETs, a green and red LED (which normally are not visible as neither the case nor the heat sink has no holes), and has space for a button but no button is soldered on.
The battery input wires and motor output wires are very close to the FETs, which is a good design. There are 5 FETs on each side of the PCB. The one on the lower side are facing the microcontroller board -- and therefore will keep it quite toasty (= not good).

The bottom PCB contains a microcontroller (unknown brand/model) and a BEC circuit. The BEC circuit seems to be a switch mode design, which is good.

Soldering joints of the on/off switch and receiver wire are not very good, one should better be gentle with them.

Despite the heat sink issue the ESC was working fine. But 240A is certainly a joke. I put it on my XR311 chassis with a standard silver can. When I blocked the wheels (= stalling the motor = maximum power draw) for ~10 seconds the FETs got already very, very hot. I certainly wouldn't use it for a buggy, SCT, rally car, or anything that draws a lot of power.
It has fixed programmed neutral and end points, so for best experience it should be used with transmitters that can adjust throttle end points and reversing.
It has standard brake and reverse functionality.

Bottom line: better buy the "320A" China-ESC, which has only a single PCB and through-hole FETs that are directly connected to the heat sink. It is slightly larger, but will most likely be more robust.
laneboysrc
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Post by ket2175 Fri 24 Aug 2012 - 22:53

Hi Lane boy , sad to hear this. I myself bought 3 of the 320A China esc on ebay, free shipping and each esc cost SGD 13 plus.

I use 2 of the esc on my Semi truck and Axial Wraith , both of them work great. And the heat sink was great too , worth buying.

So think u can try get one of it .
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Post by wyetuck88 Fri 24 Aug 2012 - 23:40

I am waiting for mine...after hearing your troubles, I am wondering should I also get the 320A ones...
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Post by Liew Fri 24 Aug 2012 - 23:45

Looks like I give the wrong info pale
Will try on tf2 see can last how long Sad
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Post by laneboysrc Sat 25 Aug 2012 - 7:27

Liew wrote:Looks like I give the wrong info pale
Will try on tf2 see can last how long Sad

I think for a trailing truck with a high turn motor it will do just fine. A short peak of high current every now and then will be ok. But don't go buggy racing with it.
If the heat sink should come off just glue it back on with a bit of epoxy. And be extra careful with the on/off switch wire (but: if that one breaks it is an easy repair too, so no worries)

Despite what I wrote above I will use it anyway in my XR311. That car is 1/12 scale and has very little space -- which was the reason I opted for this small ESC. It has a aluminium chassis, maybe I will use that as a heat sink. For SGD 20 you are getting an awful lot of electronics even if it is half-DIY Very Happy
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Post by ket2175 Sat 25 Aug 2012 - 9:25

I use this 320A china esc on my semi truck with a 55T hpi motor and it work great.
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Post by RTECH Sat 25 Aug 2012 - 10:23

Shocked Oh my god!
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Post by laneboysrc Sun 26 Aug 2012 - 21:02

Ok, got an email this morning from the eBay seller.

Decent English; they were very sorry for the troubles and asked me to go to a local repair shop and they would refund me the repair cost.
I find that quite decent of them.

The ESC also had its maiden run today in the big metal series 2 Landy. Worked fine as expected.
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China 240A ESC arrived defect Empty ESC now burnt out

Post by laneboysrc Mon 3 Sep 2012 - 10:10

"It's dead, Jim." (Star trek quote)

One of our members managed to destroy his on Saturday, and on Sunday mine burnt out in the same vehicle.
At least we know the reason now: the transmitter was off when the ESC was connected to the battery and turned on. This happened (both times) on a FlySky GT3B system.

While one should always turn the transmitter on first (and off last), this is clearly a software defect in the ESC. No input signal (or lack thereof) should be able to cause an ESC to self-destruct Mad

I certainly do not recommend this ESC.
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Post by RTECH Mon 3 Sep 2012 - 18:13

No orhhhh.....man...
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Post by babyboy Mon 3 Sep 2012 - 22:25

I use the 320A china ESC on my landy. Its warm to the touch at the end of the trail. Still holding out for me. Sorry to hear about yours.

I have turn on the the ESC many times without the TX turn on. And most of the times during trail I switch off my TX when we come to a stop due to medical attention or video shooting or during R n R. Mine has a fail safe set in. So throttle is Zero if no signal. This is to conserve my TX battery. Dunno if this has help in anyway.
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Post by zap22 Mon 21 Jan 2013 - 4:39

Hi guys,

Could someone post the numbers of the FETs that these cheap ESCs use? I'm considering buying some of those, but before paying I'd like to know at least whether they are better than the 'regular' 10-20A ESCs of similar price. Having part numbers would allow to estimate the power rating precisely. I would post the results here.

Thanks!

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Post by laneboysrc Mon 21 Jan 2013 - 20:11

zap22 wrote:
Could someone post the numbers of the FETs that these cheap ESCs use? I'm considering buying some of those, but before paying I'd like to know at least whether they are better than the 'regular' 10-20A ESCs of similar price.

The "240A" ESC is using NTD80N02 MOSFETs from ON Semiconductor. 10 pcs in total, 6 for the "forward" part of the bridge, 4 for "reverse". Those are rated 80A 24V, which matches the total 240A rating.
Other components: EM78P156NMJ micro-controller from Taiwanese manufacturer ELAN with 8 MHz crystal oscillator, one-time programmable so no chance of software update; unknown switching regulator marked "45TI RSR".
Not so good PCB and build quality, heatsink is basically useless as it only touches 4 of the 10 FETs.
Easy to waterproof as the 2 PCBs can be separated.
However, I strongly advise against this ESC as its software is poor and if you pair it with a GT3B/C/X radio or another radio that doesn't output a receiver signal while the transmitter is off you can reliably burn it when you forget to turn your transmitter on before the receiver, or the vehicle moves out of range.

The "320A" ESC has unfortunately the numbers removed from all 6 FETs. They are in a TO220 through-hole package as opposed to the SMD DPAK of the 240A ESC. 4 for the "forward" half-bridge, 2 for the "reverse".
Other components: MC34063 switching regulator (good 'ol MC34063, baby!); LM339 quad comparator as FET driver. Unknown 14 pin micro-controller with number rubbed off and internal clock generator (no crystal).
Good PCB and build quality.
Can be waterproofed but it is a bit difficult to get between the 2 PCBs (soldered together).

hope this helps Werner
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