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Some question on wheel

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Some question on wheel Empty Some question on wheel

Post by babyboy Wed 9 May 2012 - 21:56

Some wheels are aluminium Bead lock wheel and some are injection molded plastic. Other than material and how the tyres are put in place (glue or whatever beadlock..) which is better interm of road handling?

Some of you guys talk about wheel weight... err why need wheel weight?

Sorry if I have too many question in this forum... Embarassed
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Post by boolean21 Wed 9 May 2012 - 23:02

more questions are good ma... that's what forums are for... we all can share info... Smile

i think for road or offroad handling, it largely depends on the tires.... no so much on the wheels and mounting methods.... but i'm not a tyre expert... i'm a chin chai guy... any tyre goes... Very Happy let the rest of the guys comment on the tyres...

personally, i prefer beadlock wheels... cos i don't like gluing the tyres to the wheels la... Very Happy

as for weights, some amount of wheels will help to keep the wheels to the ground during the trails or rock crawling and also we weight the front wheels more then the rear.. it also helps during uphill ascend...

keeping the wheels to the ground will mean more traction and grip better for the truck to clear the obstacles... Smile

softer tyres also helps on the grip... i also realised that the new scx10 rtr comes with vented wheels, got two holes in each wheel... (saw it on angmokia's new new toy.. ) this helps to release air and provide better grip on obstacles.... but would suggest that you seal them up if going for mud and water... so that mud and water don't get inside...

come come.. the rest, please share some info too. Smile
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Post by babyboy Wed 9 May 2012 - 23:13

Bead lock wheel is not permanent right? We can open up as and when to clean? Cos you guys go everywhere! So how does you guys clean up after each trail? Dismatle parts for cleaning up?
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Post by boolean21 Wed 9 May 2012 - 23:29

bead lock are not permanent... there are bolts that you can loosen and change tyres...

i don't clean the foams.... cos the beadlock wheels / tyres are air tight leh..... Very Happy only opened once... still looks good... so didn't bother to open anymore... Smile

for cleaning.. you will need to consult SSG Rtech... he conducts stand-by crawler every Sunday before trails to make sure all the rigs are in tip top condition before proceeding... Very Happy

if you waterproof the electronics... cleaning is as fun as trails... just spray... wash, anyways you like. Smile can also dip into bathtub if you want. Smile

if we go for "river & streams" trails, you can wash it in the "rivers & streams" too... Smile

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Post by Liew Wed 9 May 2012 - 23:31

Bead lock wheel no need to open to clean as long no hole on the wheel . aluminium wheel will last longer only . most important on wheel is the offset n weight . soft tire is better to craw n trial .
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Post by Dieselx Thu 10 May 2012 - 8:17

My other alternative on draining off the water inside the tyres is to remove the foam inside the wheel and the punch small holes on the threads of the tyres.

Make about 2 or 4 holes depending on how big you made them.

Use a hole puncher tool ( those tools that makes holes on your leather belts ) and the holes should drain off the water inside as you crawl out of the water.


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Post by babyboy Thu 10 May 2012 - 10:04

Liew wrote:Bead lock wheel no need to open to clean as long no hole on the wheel . aluminium wheel will last longer only . most important on wheel is the offset n weight . soft tire is better to craw n trial .

OK now there's a thing call offset... thot this apply to racing or drift cars... So this offset comes with the wheel specs. Wah lots more to learn and digest.
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Post by babyboy Thu 10 May 2012 - 10:11

Dieselx wrote:My other alternative on draining off the water inside the tyres is to remove the foam inside the wheel and the punch small holes on the threads of the tyres.

Make about 2 or 4 holes depending on how big you made them.

Use a hole puncher tool ( those tools that makes holes on your leather belts ) and the holes should drain off the water inside as you crawl out of the water.


There's a nice set of wheels for the Land rover defender that I saw but it is made of plastic. Review says not good for swimming as it is glued on. So if I make holes to drain the water out it will not be a problem but than again... trailing also go mud... so must i soak in the bath tub???... Ah... as i went on more question pop into my mind... and my ride is not even here yet!
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Post by Teck Thu 10 May 2012 - 11:04

y u want to make holes for the tire ?nothing will go in if u glue your tire nicely review say no good may b because it will float on water want u go to deep pool Very Happy try to put some weight on the wheel befor puting the tire n glue them nicely togather hope is help
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Post by Liew Thu 10 May 2012 - 11:09

Bro don't worry ! my cc01 go trail all stock part at first , then slowly upgrade . I use UHU glue on my plastic wheel , so I can easily open to clean or change the tire !
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Post by Dieselx Thu 10 May 2012 - 11:31

Teck wrote:y u want to make holes for the tire ?nothing will go in if u glue your tire nicely review say no good may b because it will float on water want u go to deep pool Very Happy try to put some weight on the wheel befor puting the tire n glue them nicely togather hope is help

The holes are a well known trick done by many off road guys. It allows you drain water and debris out as the tyres rotate.

The problem is if water does actually gets inside, you will have to find a means to get it out quickly. On the track or trail, the holes is the best method to drain the water as soon as the tyres start moving round and round. It is automatic.

Nobody wants to remove a glued tyres from the rim everytime they get back home. Saves lots of hours of maintenance.

Of course, I am assuming this trick is only for people who always find water inside their rim even after they tried glueing them properly. If dont want to make holes, is still up to individual lah... if you can make a perfect seal, then the holes are not necessary for sure.

In making the holes, the holes should be made between 2 knobbies of the tyre's thread. That way you hide the imperfection of the holes between the threads.

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Post by boolean21 Thu 10 May 2012 - 12:01

not really recommended to put holes in the tyres or wheels if you are planning to go mudding and water.... Smile

cos the foam inside will soak up the mud and water...
just keep them bead locked or glued properly for trails...
nice, soft tyres will also compress even when sealed...

you don't need as much grip for trails as compared to rock crawling... for rock crawling, holes in the tyres or wheels are fine... cos the rocks are nice and dry... Smile so vented wheels or tyres are ok... Smile

just my personal opinions though...
if you plan to keep dismantling the beadlock wheels and tyres for cleaning every trail... maybe soon, you won't be touching mud and water... Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad Crying or Very sad

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Post by Teck Thu 10 May 2012 - 12:15

Haha that wat I mean boo thanks for helping out i think i need to go night class to learn English Embarassed
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Post by babyboy Thu 10 May 2012 - 12:53

OK. So if do a good sealing than should be ok. Think if got water after sealing than will decide to drill hole since the wheel have been glued. Well this have to learn along the way as I progress.

Wheel weight can use those for real tyre I assume? Or how do you guys diy wheel weight?
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Post by oceanic Thu 10 May 2012 - 12:59

Wheel weights can use those leads for 1:1 wheel balancing. Dats wat i learn from lao jiaos here. Its cheaper also. A strip of 12 pcs cost $1 or $2 depending where la.
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Post by boolean21 Thu 10 May 2012 - 13:10

yeah, just use the wheel balancing weights... peel and stick... very convenient...

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Post by Dieselx Thu 10 May 2012 - 14:34

My Tundra weights fell off inside the wheel once water seeps in.
I think the next best solution is to get some thick rubberbands ( or cut bicycle tyre inner tube into rings of rubberband ) and strap them over the weights around the wheel.

The problem I got is when my tyres are going sidewalls pressure causes it to peel off..

OK I am greedy cos I stacked two weights to double its weight on each wheel.. hehe.. maybe thats why it could crawl better.. but also sink faster.. Laughing

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Post by ironman Thu 10 May 2012 - 15:55

Teck wrote:y u want to make holes for the tire ?nothing will go in if u glue your tire nicely review say no good may b because it will float on water want u go to deep pool Very Happy try to put some weight on the wheel befor puting the tire n glue them nicely togather hope is help

true!

during my first trail, my wraith went turtle e moment it enters e 'pond'. cos e rims n tires were stock.
captured on video by Boo.
nw, i think it will definitely crawl down under!! haha.
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Post by boolean21 Thu 10 May 2012 - 16:12

Dieselx wrote:My Tundra weights fell off inside the wheel once water seeps in.
I think the next best solution is to get some thick rubberbands ( or cut bicycle tyre inner tube into rings of rubberband ) and strap them over the weights around the wheel.

The problem I got is when my tyres are going sidewalls pressure causes it to peel off..

OK I am greedy cos I stacked two weights to double its weight on each wheel.. hehe.. maybe thats why it could crawl better.. but also sink faster.. Laughing

that's why it's best to seal the tyres properly if you wanna go for mud and water... Smile

hmm, water shouldn't affect the weights la.. cos after pasting the weights on the wheels, there's still the foam to wrap around the weights... Smile
rubber bands sounds like a good idea... for my honcho... before i managed to find wheel balancing weights... i used fishing weights... Very Happy i wrapped them to the wheels tight and they are still running in my honcho... Razz
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Post by babyboy Thu 10 May 2012 - 18:59

Any guide on whats the weight required? I mean total weight for each wheel... any "best practice"?
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Post by Teck Thu 10 May 2012 - 21:04

dont think there is a guide line for weight require on wheel for trail truck but we try to put more weight on the front wheel for rock crawler
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Post by angmohkia Thu 10 May 2012 - 21:12

Weight for what ar? Last week I nvr put weight how ar? This sunday must put weight anot?

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Post by boolean21 Thu 10 May 2012 - 21:41

babyboy wrote:Any guide on whats the weight required? I mean total weight for each wheel... any "best practice"?
Like what teck say... No hard and fast rule....
When I did my research last year....many people put around 60g to 120g of weights per rim...
So I weighted my honcho front wheels 100g each and rear wheels 60g each.....
Didn't change anything till now...

angmohkia wrote:Weight for what ar? Last week I nvr put weight how ar? This sunday must put weight anot?
yes, need to weight your ankles... Razz

Your tyres are glued... Wanna add weights have to boil tyre soup leh....
More troublesome...
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Post by RJNG Sat 12 May 2012 - 23:27

Hi guys, you know where can I get some cheap wheel weight around?
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Post by oceanic Sun 13 May 2012 - 9:39

RJNG wrote:Hi guys, you know where can I get some cheap wheel weight around?

If u mean d wheel balancing leads, from petrol station tire shop. Some sell $1 per strip of 12 pcs. Some $2.
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Post by RJNG Sun 13 May 2012 - 17:29

oceanic wrote:
RJNG wrote:Hi guys, you know where can I get some cheap wheel weight around?

If u mean d wheel balancing leads, from petrol station tire shop. Some sell $1 per strip of 12 pcs. Some $2.

Noted, thanks bro
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