BabyBoy's Land Rover D110 on Axial SCX10

Both my children wants to go trailing but only 1 operational ready landy. So hope can setup the second SCX10 for this Sunday Trail. The roll cage still thinking how to do.

looking good...I just realised its solid rod.

wyetuck88 wrote:looking good...I just realised its solid rod.

Still manageable. Hollow one not easy to get the bend required. I will see if can get 2mm brass rod. 3mm is a bit tough and harder to solder as compare to 2mm. 2mm gets hot faster as compare to 3mm (do a youtube search). This Landy is my guinea pig (reason I bought my 3rd d90 ). Hope my second can employ better one and better build learned from this lesson. Also the lead that required for his jod is also special. I found out the hard way till bro Liew showed me the correct lead to use.

Icic which type of lead did he use?

wyetuck88 wrote:Icic which type of lead did he use?

Its a lead with some numbers which I dun noe wht it is. 0.8mm size 60/40. I think its the type of metal mixture or something...?? I did buy Flux too to help in the lead soldering. My father used to have it when doing soldering and I thot it was grease. . You can do a search on youtube "how to solder brass rod". Its the same as wht bro Liew is doing and made a simple video to show me. He did all the soldering on the floor with thin brass plate . I did it on a chair with plywood on top. It does burn the plywood tho.

Oh i see, I used solder paste myself its the same as flux, really make all the work simpler. thanks.

A little update on the DIY Roof rack and front Roll cage. Only the centre is a full solid rod. The whole roof rack and front roll cage is "hollow" brass rod. As most of us having the landy knows that the top is heavy, so I opt for hollow brass rod. Not easy to cut to size. As mention earlier I would prefer 2mm brass rod but since I cant get hold of it yet, I just work with what I have. The roof rack material cost abt $30. Have yet to complete the roof rack and painting will follow soon...

Bought myself a Tube Cutter
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You can use hand to turn the tube. Done it and takes hell lot of time and muscle so I innovate and use this. Makes work faster!
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My soldering process all use LOS (line of sight) to get 90 degree so not very acurate but acceptable lah
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Testing on landy
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The rest just follow the base
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And also a decent bumper.
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Also a CB antenna. I like to see the slow sway of the anttena. Some bros has it but uses the Tamiya tank antenna. Its too ex for me and does not sway like what I wanted. This CB antenna cost me less than $1 and sway realistic for me.
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Will update more progress later...

Nice job, looks great!
Thanks for the tip with the antenna -- just what I was looking for for my XR311!

Looks good!

laneboysrc wrote:Nice job, looks great!
Thanks for the tip with the antenna -- just what I was looking for for my XR311!

Thanks Werner. Its just a piano wire from local hobby shop. It don't bend easily and very flexible.

boolean21 wrote:Looks good!

Thanks Ken. The next build will be what you ask for... will have more CB antenna....

Small update. Change to the shock from Gmade. Landy is lower than previous stock Axial shock. It gives me more bouncy feeling and more articulation and look more "scale like" to me. Hopefully lowering the CG to avoid falling over. At the same time I have shed 120 grams from the body by removing all lead weight. I'll see how it perform and work from there again.

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Compare with stock Axial shock
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Looks nicer! D wheels still needs to be weighted, cos of high body.

Looking good.

oceanic wrote:Looks nicer! D wheels still needs to be weighted, cos of high body.

The shock is softer hence the body droop down. The wheels are weighted with 35g or 40g each (can't remember). The tyre looks a bit flat sometimes due to the weight of the landy body . My battery installed at the rear chassis and due to the longer wheel distance to the motor compare to the front, the landy is rear heavy. As can be seen from the photo. Wonder if I want to weight down the front. Battery cannot mount to the front cos I also stretch the front wheel slightly and this will cause the servo to hit the battery.

boolean21 wrote:Looking good.

Thanks Boolean21.

The downside here is that I can't approach higher obstacle due to the lower chassis.

U can consider mounting the battery in the front, behind the shocks... Parallel to the axles....

Thats how I mounted mine.

or u try just weight the front wheels. i weighted all wheels 100g each and the batt is at the back also. used to have 60g each but still flip. its also on stock shocks la so CG bit higher.

boolean21 wrote:U can consider mounting the battery in the front, behind the shocks... Parallel to the axles....

Thats how I mounted mine.

I hold down the body with attachment at that location. I need to re-look and re-design if I want to place the battery there. Another option is... Lipo is lighter and probly smaller? Actually hor... I build the SCX10 wrongly... not acording to the manual... the motor is mounted in the wrong facing. Had problem with the ESC location and the battery connection to the motor. I only notice my mistake when I saw Werner Dingo and I ask him any reason why he mounted his motor the other way round

its ok, i swapped my honcho's transmission around too... means spur gear in the front.... cos i installed a dig unit for my honcho...

i removed the receiver box, and put some electronics at the receiver box location...

can consider using smaller lipos too if you don't go swimming or diving often...

oceanic wrote:or u try just weight the front wheels. i weighted all wheels 100g each and the batt is at the back also. used to have 60g each but still flip. its also on stock shocks la so CG bit higher.

Thanks for the tip. My wheel is very narrow... so I have max the space in the wheel. I will try the weight at the inner side (facing chassis) with lead sheet (bought from fishing shop) tonite and test the roll over tolerence. The shock is good for rock crawling as it gives good articulation. I can have 1 tyre going up all the way to the fender ored and still keeps the landy upright. Cant do this with my stock shock.

boolean21 wrote:its ok, i swapped my honcho's transmission around too... means spur gear in the front.... cos i installed a dig unit for my honcho...

i removed the receiver box, and put some electronics at the receiver box location...

can consider using smaller lipos too if you don't go swimming or diving often...

No lah.. I won't go swimming. My electronic's all just water resistance. just wading I happy ored. Diving is out of the question Can't survive the jump! Haven't finnish the landy and the cracks ored can be seen due to my lousy and inexperience skill. Need to do putty. My next one will chop off the back cover... and put canvas. Should not have top heavy problem I hope.

Nicely done!!!

wyetuck88 wrote:Nicely done!!!

Thanks Bro. I see yours getting heavier by each upgrade.

Hahahah...yes it is but not if I used the unimog cover.

After much trailing with the condition of roads that we go, the wheel finally gave way. That's the reason my car can drive side way and the tyre wobble. And I thot it's normal for glued tyre.

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2 more wheel giong up car liao.

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Will replace the wheels from Gmade Beadlock Wheel.

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Now the tyre is slightly out from the fender.

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Anyone knows how to remove the tyre from the wheel? I use superglue.

Never removed tires, but stumbled across this video a while ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHjcdiViDtQ



hope it helps, Werner

Wow your d110 power le can trail until the wheel like that

laneboysrc wrote:Never removed tires, but stumbled across this video a while ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHjcdiViDtQ



hope it helps, Werner

Thanks Werner. Will try the boiling method. If all else fail than it will remain as spare tyre forever....

Teck wrote:Wow your d110 power le can trail until the wheel like that

Ya lor. Every weekend the trail very bumpy and got so many tree roots to climb over. Wonder got smoother trail or not. tree roots very damaging to the landy. Some more I no budget, so buy cheaper wheel. You get what you pay for lor... but hor the tyre is needed for final landy project.

Ya lor. Every weekend the trail very bumpy and got so many tree roots to climb over. Wonder got smoother trail or not. tree roots very damaging to the landy. Some more I no budget, so buy cheaper wheel. You get what you pay for lor... but hor the tyre is needed for final landy project.

haha yah man, I see the videos also I heart pain for all the nice trucks. Hopefully can find more desert-like sand-gravel kind of trail that's not so punishing

where's the fun if no obstacle and challenges. just flat ground is boring

boiling will change the shape of the tire slightly. easier method is to bake it. can find online. quite easy and won't change the tire's structure much.