electronics help

ok electronics experts..

got a question..

which motor suits a FUTABA MC230CR, a stock silvercan or a 80t motor?

Not an expert, but the instructions say "20T or higher". A normal silvercan is 27T, so both silvercan and 80T motors should work fine.

thx werner.

i read e manual, e forward is 90a, reverse is 45a.
when i used e 80t motor, my 4200mah nimh batt only lasts less then 30mins. n e motor gets hot fast. i used stock 20t pinion gear.

my previous set up on e dingo, i used a cheap china made 320a esc with e 80t motor. worked fine on trails. but crawling speed is damn slow. is it due to e higher amp in e esc?

i juz tried e silvercan with e futaba esc. motor heat is moderate, but not as torquey as e 80t. cant even climb up a kerb!

stil trying to get e ideal set up using e "equipments" on hand.

currently i have
-towarpro mg996r servo,
-cheap china made 320a esc,
-rc4wd 80t motor, stock tamiya silver can,
- futaba mc230cr esc.

wat u tink werner? wats ur recommendations?

I think your 4200mAh battery is not charged properly...

Current rating in esc specs are only the max current that the esc can supply...
It doesnt make a difference in the current drawn by the same motor...

is it?
so which better to use? e 90a esc or 320a esc?

ironman wrote:is it?
so which better to use? e 90a esc or 320a esc?

No difference for crawlers... High turn motor draws little current....
2x 55t motor drawing less than 10A in my xr10...

thx, boo.

does using higher pinion gear help to keep e temp lower on e 80t motor?

Like Boo said: no difference between the ESC. The ampere numbers are anyway to be taken with a grain of salt...

If the motor gets hot then maybe it is dirty inside, or defect? If in the same vehicle, with same gearing and same electronics the silvercan is fine and the 80T overheats, then it is certainly a motor issue.

I had a look at the RC4WD site (http://store.rc4wd.com/540-Crawler-Brushed-Motor-80T_p_825.html). The motor has a stall current of 6 Amps. Stall current means you block the motor, then apply full power. That's the worst case that will never happen during driving. Even with this ampere draw your battery should last half an hour or more.

From the picture and description the motor looks like a normal, non-rebuildable 540. What you could do is clean it internally by connecting it to 2 AA batteries (do not use your NiMH 6-cell for this!) and let it run for a few minutes submersed in clean water. That may clean out some gunk. After that put a bit of light machine oil on front and rear bearings.
It could also be that the brushes are worn out -- in that case the motor is end-of-life...

thx professor!

By the way, just to add, water increase the wear on the brush.