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Circuitry Help

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Circuitry Help Empty Circuitry Help

Post by dragonl Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 13:57

Hi Guys,

Got myself a speed passion set, Sanwa MT4 controller and receiver and have a bit of problem with the circuitry. Getting rusty as I have not do circuitry for decades.

(1) Servo to connect to the steering control in receiver.
(2) ESC connect to throttle control in receiver.
(3) Here is where problem start: motor to ESC (do you solder the cable to each other or u have a connector in-between so that you can swap between car)
    What cable thickness u use? What is indicated is 12 AWG. There is 3 cable, do you guys get the cable with different colors? There are blue, yellow and            orange. Where do I get those, especially if it is only required for short pieces.
(4) ESC +ve and -ve do u install a switch before it is connect to the Lipo battery. Due to the thickness of the cable I don't think the one that come with Sanwa can fit or there is modification done to the switch?
(5) Speed passion provided the capacitor along with the package, where does these goes to? Nothing is mentioned in the guide.

Thanks in advance.

dragonl
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Posts : 12
Join date : 2014-02-15

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Circuitry Help Empty Re: Circuitry Help

Post by babyboy Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 19:00

Hi dragonl. Motor and esc use connector. Different color is advisable as it will connect back to the esc and you wont match the wrong cable between the esc and motor.(think theres a convention of which cable to connect to... I may be wrong) Usually no switch between the esc and batt. Think can get the cable from local hobby shop or electrical shop or diy shop. Capacitor i dunno where it connect to.


Last edited by babyboy on Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 19:25; edited 1 time in total
babyboy
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Post by dragonl Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 19:11

babyboy wrote:Hi dragonl. Motor and esc use connector. Different color is advisable as it will connect back to the esc and you wont match the wrong cable between the esc and motor.(think theres a convention of which cable to connect to... I may be wrong) Usually no switch between the esc and batt. Think can get the cable from local hobby shop or electrical shop or diy shop.

Thanks for the reply Babyboy, I notice the on/off switch is on the esc itself, should be enough i guess? I notice that you guys generally connect the motor to the esc using a male/ female connector in between. Is that the usual practice? Coz I like the idea of of being able to plug and play between chassis if I ever go serious on the hobby.

dragonl
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Post by babyboy Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 19:30

Yes. Using a male and female connector. If the esc has a switch it is sufficient. Just a reminder... if you are new to the rc... you switch on your Transmitter power first before you switch on the reciever power. When swicth off... you switch off your reciever than transmitter.
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Post by laneboysrc Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 20:27

Babyboy already answered most. To add:

Cable thickness: 12AWG is fine for very high currents, 14..16 AWG is fine too for higher turn motors as used in Scale trucks/Crawlers.

Do NOT put a switch in the battery wires. You would need a beast of a switch to handle the high current (40+ amps!) flowing in the system. Simply disconnect the battery after switching off the car.

The color of the wires is of no importance other than for your orientation. Since you have 3 wires to the motor you are using a "brushless" system. What car is this for?
If it is for a scaler/crawler you should use a "sensored" brushless system. Sensored means that the motor has a position sensors built-in that feedbacks to the ESC. There must be a thin 6-pole wire with a small plug on both ends between the ESC and the motor.
With a sensored system you must connect the wires labled A/B/C to the correct motor terminal A/B/C. If you mix it up the ESC will burn after power up.

If you have a "sensorless" system you don't have this separate thin 6-pole wires. Sensorless systems do not run very smoothly at low speeds, but are fine for bashing, racing, drifting,...

Please consult your manual to find out whether you have a sensored/sensorless system!

Plugs: Usually for the motor connectors 3.5 or 4mm Banana plugs are used. Easily available in local hobby shops. Get heat shrink along with it.

The capacitor can be for two purposes. If it just a bare capacitor then it is most likely to go over the battery input terminals + and - directly at the ESC. It provides a little bit of extra support in high current situations.
If it has a servo plug on it then it is a booster capacitor to smoothen the receiver/servo voltage. Plug it into an empty port on the receiver.
There should be a voltage rating printed on the capacitor. For a 2S LiPo battery it should be 16V or higher. For 3S 25V or higher. If it is 10V or lower then it is most certainly for the receiver/servo and must not be connected to the battery terminals as it may blow up (a fun event: makes a very loud bang Smile )



laneboysrc
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Post by dragonl Sat 8 Mar 2014 - 22:22

Thanks Laneboysrc. Currently, working on a TA05 V2 for drifting as I haven't spot a ideal frame for a crawler/scaler. Any recommendation will be great here.

It is a sensored system and i believe the capacitor is for the battery terminal since it came along with the motor. Not sure, if 10.5R is consider a high turn motor. I would believe so since I was looking for a high torque motor.

On the curious side,is installing plugs meant for easy switching of motor as well as ESC and reciever or it serve other purposes?

dragonl
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Post by RTECH Sun 9 Mar 2014 - 11:02

Smile For high current circuitry, if possible , better to solder directly to the terminals rather than using plug.
As ageing may cause plug to oxidise or loose and result in bad contact.

Just remember to unplug the battery all times when not using the vehicle. Switching off the receiver thru the little swtich only cut-off the supply to the receiver. The battery power still goes into the ESC standing by.
RTECH
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Post by dragonl Sun 9 Mar 2014 - 21:53

Thanks Rtech for the advice. One more thing, do you guys use silver or lead solder for soldering the wire for better conductivity? I don't think it is easy to find it around.

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Post by laneboysrc Mon 10 Mar 2014 - 16:53

Solder: standard leaded electronics solder works fine (60/40, with rosin core = flux).

Re motor connectors:they are mostly for convenience, sometimes pre-installed on ESC and motor. For people who can't or don't want to solder. As RTECH said: solder directly is better.

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