Tamiya CC-01 Wrangler - built thread

[Dieselx]

Tamiya CC-01 Wrangler

TAMIYA JEEP (YJ) WRANGLER CC-01 - item 84071**21800

We don't have to introduce much at all on this kit... if you had found your way to here, I suppose you pretty well know what it takes to bring you little joy of owning this 1/10 CC-01 jeep Wrangler.

www.tamiya.com

Bought myself a quality masking tape and 2 paints.

Light Sand TS-46 and Matt Black TS-6.

My favourite Tamiya store Stargek ( Singapore ) always have a nice fabric carrier bag for every kit purchased.

It would come either in black or blue.

www.stargek.com

This Jeep Wrangler kit cost slightly more than any other Tamiya CC-01 kit because it has a plastic hard body instead of the polycarbonated material.

The tyres are scaled looking but I would swap them out for my old Tamiya Tundra tyres which are a little softer and bigger.

I refrain from overly-huge performance grade crawler tyres for its scale look.



The Wrangler kit also contains a light unit. It comes with 2 pairs of LED but the light unit would allow you to connect up to 8 pairs of LED for your christmas-lights fetish.

As usual, Tamiya also supplies the electronic speed controller and a cheap brushed motor, but I have no problem using the motor on my other kits - they last.



I do not intend to blog on the building of the CC-01.

There's plenty of such information in the website already. Google it.

But worth a mention is the stage when you are building your differential gear.

As shown in the background, the instruction manual, it did not specifically mention your clear option until you read the last few pages that you can lock the differentials.

So, remember to use the locking plates supplied during this build stage if you want a locked differential on the rear axle, else you risk taking apart the entire axle to install the locking plate in future.

The picture shown here would be ideal if you purchase the locking plate and install it for the front differentials.



As for the front, you can also attempt to lock it during the build stage.

Decide whether you want to sacrifice a little steering over slightly better crawling performance.

Unfortunately Tamiya did not supply 2 pairs of locking plates. But you will do this simple modification instead.

Some people jammed a bevel gear in between.

But I figured out I would jam two bevel gears instead.

Not shown in this picture, you would need to also cut a very short piece of silicon fuel tubing and slot it over the unused star-pin that holds the 3rd bevel gear to prevent the 2 bevel gears from weaving off.



Another tip widely spread by CC-01 builder to increase steering throw is to trim off the stub ends on the C-hub.

I took this picture from a post found in rcnitrotalk.com to show you where this stub is located.

Just cut it away during the building stage.



www.rcnitrotalk.com

With some paintings done, decals applied, it sure looks good to go.

The tyres are slightly bigger as shown here, using the Tamiya Tundra Rock Crawlers M/T.

It still looks pretty good as it would still flush with the fenders and tuck under it when the shocks are compressed.



Meanwhile, worth a mention here is that this Tamiya Wranger kit, as usual with any other CC-01 kits, does not come supplied with full ball bearings set.

It is a pity that Tamiya still prefer to target the wrong group.

Place your orders online for a full set of ball bearings with AsiaTees.com to upgrade your CC-01 with metal ball bearings.



www.asiatees.com

For performance, you may wish to consider getting a better rear 4-point-linkage to replace the Tamiya kit's extremely soft rear link arms.



Worth a mention if you intend to get the metal linkage, do remember to purchase the rear damper mountings too.

I personally think it should come as a full set and wonder why anyone would buy the linkage without the damper mounts ?



For crawling intesive trails, I would also suggest that wheel weights be added to the rims. At least add them on your front wheels to improve front traction as your vehicle weight bias would be transfered far back to its rear axle when on an incline.

Go to any car tyre workshop ( I mean, real cars, not RC cars ) and ask for old wheel balancing weights.

I did asked nicely and they point me to the trashbin - I did picked up a couple of better ones.

But this time, I decided to purchase 10 long stripes of wheel weights, cut them up into sizes and stick them on.

New wheel weights come with self adhesives on them so it works easily.

Drap epoxy around the weights so that they do not dislodge when the tyres are put over them, or when water enters the tyres inside and peels them off.

I use Pro-Spec brand epoxy, which is clear when cured, but any quick dry formula would do.



www.prospec.com

Well, that should pretty much sum up what you can do for your CC-01 to improve its trail capabilities.

In future improvements, I will be installing perhaps a high turn crawler motor and look into improvising water proofing for the electronics.

Then, there would be a simple modification that I would like to experiment for a rear drop link for more articulation of the rear.

Terence
more updates can be found here in future..
http://terence-tamiya-wrangler.blogspot.com/

[Liew]

Wah !!! Very detail built up

[Dieselx]

Hope to help newbies on building the CC-01.

This is not my first CC-01 built so I'm quite familiar and thus able to offer more opinion and at the same time take photos and dig up tips along the way from well known website and forums

My first CC-01 was the Touareg model.

[boolean21]

nice build thread! well documented!

[Dieselx]

I had an idea on how to water proof my electronics altogether within a single box.

Bought a really cheap but quality food storage container for $2 ( SGD ) and it comes in a pack of 4 from Daiso ( Singapore ).

Use foam double-sided tapes to stick the electronic speed controller, receiver and switch on the inside of the box and made a hole for the cables to exit on the lids.

You can then seal up the hole with silicone to prevent water from entering through the hole.

To access the electronics, just lift off the lid !

www.daiso-sangyo.co.jp



While working on the box, I realized that the batteries should be elevated high enough too so that water crossing will not pose a problem to these high current LiPo cells.

2 FlightMax 2 cells 2200 mAh purchased from HobbyKing online store did the job really nicely.

These 2 Lipo seats perfectly at the rear end, well supported by the wheel arch and the 2 protrusion piece of plastic making a very good holding tool for the Lipo.

I only had to lightly tape down the Lipo with Velcros so that it doesn't drop out when the truck overturns.

www.hobbyking.com



Hope these tips helps !

[qks57]

how about your servo? has it been waterproof-ed? if not, hitec made a pretty good waterproof servo.

[Dieselx]

no i have not waterproof the servo yet..

[Dieselx]

Water-proofed my servo with some grease and sealing silcone around the seams.. hopefully.. LOLX..

Oh yes, waiting impatiently for my hop-up parts too.. should arrive this week..

Meanwhile, no more BBB because its UUU - upgrade upgrade upgrade..

[Dieselx]

30 May 2012

Here is a tip - use a black felt tip painter pen to outline the edges.

It covers up your mistake when you are masking off the fenders.



I have received my full package from AsiaTees and it came in a well packed box and a free AsiaTees black T-Shirt !



However I am disappointed with the hexagonal wheel hub as it seems to be of the wrong type and could not clamp onto the rear axles.

Only the front axles can be properly secured.

After some hard work trying to figure out which part goes to which location, I end up having to visit Chin Ngai Hobby website to check out the type of screws and orientation of each part.

www.gpmracing.com.hk

I suppose AsiaTees could do better by providing a simple diagram on retro-fitting.



Here is the final retro-fitting of the hop-up parts, viewed from the rear.



And of course, the usual crawler and trail truck trademark pose - I used my iPhone for show off, of course !

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