Re: wyetuck88's Land Rover Series 2 SWB build thread

[wyetuck88]

looks good... everything is taking shape nicely...

btw, how much do they charge for welding and bending?

Thanks! bro its a secret..but I can tell you altogether it is a 3 digit figure.

[boolean21]

looks good... everything is taking shape nicely...

btw, how much do they charge for welding and bending?

Thanks! bro its a secret..but I can tell you altogether it is a 3 digit figure.

alright man.

[oceanic]

Wah bro welding n bending cost 3 digits? Like dat whole setup costs more than our d90 build loh.
But its a great build bro.

[wyetuck88]

Wah bro welding n bending cost 3 digits? Like dat whole setup costs more than our d90 build loh.
But its a great build bro.

Thnks!! welding cost the most. I weld up the body in parts, thats why cost a lot more.

[jd.arnold]

just found this build very cool looks good

[wyetuck88]

just found this build very cool looks good

Ｔhanks!!!
About time for an update. Been busy for the previous month, but finally found some time to continue on the body.

Bought a set of rock crusher 2.2, expensive but look really nice, as they have thick side walls
I decided to run them foamless, RC4WD tires are kind of airtight, after I tighten the beadlock rings they
retain some air, its like running on tires with low pressure. All four tires are strong enough to support all the weight for the series 2

applying some presure will make them sit a bit lower but never once low enough for the ground to touch the rims.

Maybe someday I will do a bit of mod and maybe add in a bicycle tube valve and we will have pneumatic tires,
I have an air shock at home so maybe I could pump it up too! I did a diy airshock using bigger pneumatic cylinders with
bicycle tube valve over at SMBF last year.

This is how the chassis sits at the moment.

Alright, More work on the body.
Front and rear doors all cut out and suddenly the whole body feels a bit lighter!!! Never knew my doors were so heavy.


This it how it looks on the chassis.




The rear door currently is a one whole piece of Aluminium, I have yet to cut the windows out. Rear bumper is 3mm thick Aluminium is also fabricated and welded on.
The two side brace on the front is also welded in place.
Now I need zero offset wheels and all wheels will be sitting inside the fenders.

Body is now maybe 75% completed? Things left to do are
To repair putty on the roof, they kind of expand under the heat from welding, not a pleasant smell at all.
I know I should have weld up everything before putting putty.
To fix the roof, theres supposed to be a small rain shelter all around the roof?
To find suitable rubber strips for the windows
To find small hindges for all the doors and hood
To make the interior
To make the headlights
I think thats all for now, Probably will take around 2 to 3 months? my school is starting next week and finially start painting it.


thanks for reading I hope you guys will like it!

[boolean21]

Looking good!

[laneboysrc]

Nice it is!

Regarding hinges: maybe "doll house" hinges could work, something like http://www.thelittledollhousecompany.com/dollhouses-miniatures-furniture-kits/square-hinge-gold-plated-brass-4-pkg-for-dollhouses-1/

[babyboy]

Bro can check with you where you buy the square tube for the chassis and how you cut it up after bending. Sorry ah I need visual to understand how you cut up the square tube after bending. Cannot use cutting disc right, with all the bend here and there.

[wyetuck88]

For the Square tube u can check out boo recommendation on the shops to get the hardware supplies. I cut the square tube with a angle grinder with cuttin disc attachment.

[babyboy]

OK. Thanks bro. I will think of other method to do my chassis. I broke a cutting disc before while cutting. So now a bit scared.

[wyetuck88]

Haha, yeah it's very dangerous, I had a few close call myself, looking back on how I used the grinder on my landy still makes me thinks that paying others to do the cutting is a much better choice.

[wyetuck88]

a little update

Found some time to cut out all the doors and fabricated new ones to
replace those damaged during the cutting process





did a little work to strenghten the structure of the land rover body...






Fabricate the rear bed too.






And weld them up together.

Coldman aka yusoft point out to me the front end of the land rover is tapered, the front is wider then
the rear. Thanks for pointing that out, I didnt realise until u mention that. Unfortunately the front
grill was too fragile to be welded togther and thus I have decided to left it as it is.

I got some time to make some cross member too.



will be welded to the chassis later.

Body still need more work, but its almost completed. Need hinges, paint and lots of other misc details.

This is for liew, He pass me the unimog body since he didnt use it anymore, owe him a drink haha. Thanks and Liew if you ever want it back just let me know!!!!




I think the unimog body looks really good!!! although is closer to 1/12 scale but I think it fits the chassis prefectly!!!
Gonna cut and rebuild the cab. The bed will be redone too.



Thanks For reading I hope you guys enjoy it as much as I do. I hope you like it too!.

[Liew]

Look nice !
Unimog are 1/10 ! Is a small truck !

[boolean21]

good to have the little mean green military mog back!

[babyboy]

Wah landy turn Unimog Monster Truck!

[laneboysrc]

Great to see work progressing, looking forward to see it finished!

The Unimog body on the big chassis reminds me of the "Uniraith":

[wyetuck88]

Thanks werner, that will be one of my aspiration to draw on.

Not really an update but I bought some new rims, put them on and lower down the height of the whole truck...







Thanks for looking.

[boolean21]

looks good!

[wyetuck88]

Thanks!.

[wyetuck88]

Some updates,

I put some paint on the body, and
I have chosen blue and a cream colour for the canopy. Looks period correct too.

before




after




The sound from the axial transmission had been irking me for quite some time.
I could order a gear reduction from hpi and it would solve the problem,but I remembered
master Boolean gearbox from his spoilt drill and I thought Its worth a try to use the gearbox too.
So I bought a spoilt cordless drill for $10.

The full assembly after a easy battle with the housing.


Insides are quite sturdy, Full steel gears, Little to no signs of wear at all.
3 sets of planetary gears in total.


This model came with 2 speed high and low. Gonna attach a second servo and I will have 2 speed. Its a pity that I couldn't find a 3 speed model, Else It will even be better


Just the gearbox itself after removing the 3 jaw chuck and motor.
The black springs act as a ''slipper clutch" mechanism, it allow the main gear to "slip" in case for some reason the wheels wouldn't budge.





Thats all for now.
Thanks for looking!!!

[boolean21]

Looks good!

Nice updates!

[wyetuck88]

Thanks!!!

[wyetuck88]

some tiny updates.


The universal joint has been weld on to the output shaft from the gearbox and connected to the "transfer case" I ran it a few times on the weekly trail and its really smooth and much more silent compared to the default axial gearbox. I found out that the gear ratio for the

First stage is 3.33:1
Second stage 2.81:1
and output stage 4.5:1.

Altogether its 42.1:1. The poor 20 turn G20 stock motor was not really design for this as a result run time suffered at the expense of more torque and a nice slow speed control.
Fortunately I found out that the gears at the second stage could be bypass with a little modding and can produce an output of 15:1 ratio. Then again I will gain
some speed and lose some torque. That will be another project for another day.

I sourced for another two speed gearbox this time from markita, Its slightly more compact and well made. Still looking for 3 speed gearbox too.


The last trail broke the pin on my front left CV joint, and shearing off the rear driveshaft at the same time. So I bought some extra long 6mm allen key,
cut them to the length I wanted and yes they were a prefect fit with the topcad driveshaft product[8021X]. All steel construction now so I guess it will last a while.
I also Replace the pin with a proper steel one this time.


Nothing much but reposition the rear damper at an angle.

Also Got some Battery Trays for my chassis.




Pics of the body beside the chassis.






Lastly I Made some "windows for the body.

Still got work to do on the body, I guess the next update will be in June.
Thanks for Reading!!!

[boolean21]

Nice idea to use the 6mm allen key...


Nice updates!

[laneboysrc]

Looking great, the build seems to be in the home stretch where attention is spent on details. Thanks for explaining the details of the gearing, I am sure many will be inspired by that.

[babyboy]

Nice update. I like the way you build your project. Very innovative.

[wyetuck88]

Nice idea to use the 6mm allen key...


Nice updates!

Thanks!!!

Looking great, the build seems to be in the home stretch where attention is spent on details. Thanks for explaining the details of the gearing, I am sure many will be inspired by that.

Thanks!!!

Nice update. I like the way you build your project. Very innovative.

Thanks!!!

[boolean21]

bro wyetuck,
you went for supper at Jalan Kayu with two other friends?

spotted your land rover series 2 at Jalan Kayu car park..

[wyetuck88]

Hi master boo, what a nice find!!, are they Singapore plate??? I would like to own a 1:1 someday. I haven't been active for a long time, the metal land rover have retired and I will start on some new projects probably in june. Wish me success.

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