[How To] How to Waterproof Brushed ESC and RC Electronics?

How to Waterproof ESC and RC Electronics (Insulation Spray Method)

Want to run your RC trucks, cars, etc in water like how we run them?

Received many PMs on how do we waterproof our RC electronics, how do we "make" the trucks survive water, etc etc...

So here's a short "how-to" to share with fellow friends on one of the waterproofing method that we use to protect our ESC, BEC, etc etc from the elements.

Check it out.

Disclaimer: It worked for us, still, there are always risks when playing with water... We do not guarantee that it works for you too.

Warning: TRY AT YOUR OWN RISKS....!

Thanks for watching!

Add us on Facebook https://facebook.com/SGCrawlers
Visit us at http://SGCrawlers.co.nr and http://MyHoncho.blogspot.com
Our youtube Channel https://www.youtube.com/MyHonchoSG

Keep RC-ing!!!

Great how-to video! Now people will only message you with "where to get the insulating compound"

laneboysrc wrote:Great how-to video! Now people will only message you with "where to get the insulating compound"

thanks bro...

hmmm... i think you are right! hahaha...
just hope it helps some bros and give them an idea on how to get affordable waterproof electronics for their RCs...

Hi everyone,

got a brand new SCX10 Honcho RTR delivered for waterproofing. No, not our truck .

I used this product to waterproof the ESC:



3M Insulating Sealer 1603 Black. They also have a transparent and a red version.
Available in Sim Lim Tower B1-01 for SGD 16 (large 340g can).

First thing is to take the ESC out of the casing. Remove the sticker that covers the sides and the bottom of the Axial ESC. The sticker comes off easily and you can stick it back on later when you are done. After removing the sticker you see tabs in the plastic that hold the upper part of the case to the lower part. Gently pushing with a small flat screwdriver separates the parts.

What you are left with is the bare electronics:



On the bottom there is a sticker. Remove it, it serves no purpose. Your warranty has been voided at this point already



Mask off the wires and the heat sink. You could spray the heat sink too, but this will degrade cooling performance. Not that it matters for an SCX10 which doesn't draw a lot of power.



What is important with the 3M spray is that you spray from at least 25 cm distance away. Otherwise some of the solvent gets into the layer you spray on and it takes an awful long time to dry. Ask me how I found out
And ensure you are in a well ventilated area (HDB car parks work well ) as this stuff smells very strong, much stronger than RC grade paint.





Hang it for drying:



After a 2nd thin coat and plenty of drying time it looked like this:





Before you start putting everything back together it is always a good idea to test. Just in case...
Even though the insulating spray adds thickness to the PCB there is plenty of room in the Axial ESC casing:



Put the top case on, clean up the wires, re-apply the sticker, and it is ready for the mud!

woohoo...! nice write up!

tks! how does this compare to using Corrosion X? Is the 3M method better?

DWJL511 wrote:how does this compare to using Corrosion X? Is the 3M method better?

I have seen Corrosion X at Jethobby, but never tried it. If I look at their website at http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html it seems to be more like a grease like WD40 than an insulating sealer.

laneboysrc wrote:

DWJL511 wrote:how does this compare to using Corrosion X? Is the 3M method better?

I have seen Corrosion X at Jethobby, but never tried it. If I look at their website at http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html it seems to be more like a grease like WD40 than an insulating sealer.

Corrosion X is thick oil base like. Smells like Singer oil. Its thick and sticky. Will not last forever and need to reapply. Once apply very oily and not easily wash off. I use it for my china ESC and servo. So far still surviving. Now with Laneboysrc info, time to get some water proofing for my upcoming china ESC.

babyboy wrote:

laneboysrc wrote:

DWJL511 wrote:how does this compare to using Corrosion X? Is the 3M method better?

I have seen Corrosion X at Jethobby, but never tried it. If I look at their website at http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx.html it seems to be more like a grease like WD40 than an insulating sealer.

Corrosion X is thick oil base like. Smells like Singer oil. Its thick and sticky. Will not last forever and need to reapply. Once apply very oily and not easily wash off. I use it for my china ESC and servo. So far still surviving. Now with Laneboysrc info, time to get some water proofing for my upcoming china ESC.

Am using CX now for all electronics. Soak for abt 2 hours then drip dry for a day. So far so good. I put everything in double balloons and seal ends with marine grease btw 2 zip ties, so I think it shld last for a long time as circuits are not sitting or soaking in water.

DWJL511 wrote: I put everything in double balloons and seal ends with marine grease btw 2 zip ties, so I think it shld last for a long time as circuits are not sitting or soaking in water.

Thanks for the tip with sealing the balloon openings with marine grease; will do that next time.

Instead of zip ties I use these plastic coated metal wires that come in toy packaging. I find they wrap tighter than the cable ties, which are quite stiff especially at small diameters.

Hi guys,

Newbie question:

Do i really need to submerge and run into water my brushed motor to become water proof.? -what i've seen online

Ty

I don't break in the motors... brushed motors will run fine underwater.

Thanks bro. Appriciate it.