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Hobby King ESC and Motor

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Hobby King ESC and Motor Empty Hobby King ESC and Motor

Post by ket2175 Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 14:28

Hi any one here use hobby Wing esc and motor here? Is this good for my Monster Truck?
Here the link. http://www.rcmart.com/rc-brushless-hobbywing-combom3a-xerun-sensor-150a-4274sl-motor-2000kv-p-30437.html


Last edited by ket2175 on Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 18:11; edited 1 time in total
ket2175
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Hobby King ESC and Motor Empty Re: Hobby King ESC and Motor

Post by boolean21 Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 14:37

haha... this is hobby wing leh... not hobby king... Razz
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Post by ket2175 Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 18:11

Sorry typo error.
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Post by RTECH Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 19:30

ket2175 wrote:Sorry typo error.


Typo error , fine $50 plus free drinks at kopitiam for one week.
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Post by ket2175 Mon 21 Nov 2011 - 23:12

RTECH wrote:
ket2175 wrote:Sorry typo error.


Typo error , fine $50 plus free drinks at kopitiam for one week.

Wow u worse than gov leh.
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Hobby King ESC and Motor Empty ESC motor combo for 1/10 4wd rally/ tour car

Post by RCGolf Tue 4 Dec 2012 - 17:19

Hi,

Sorry to revive and hijack this thread. I am looking for a set of brushless ESC and motor for my incoming 1:10 4WD rally/tour/drift chassis. Was hoping can get some inputs so that I do not get something under powered or something over the top.

I am just bashing around, perhaps some tracking but definitely no plans (read skills) for any competitions anytime soon. Having said that, definitely no intention to be slow too Twisted Evil

Which of the following is a more suitable choice for my purpose or is there something better?

120A Xerun with 8.5T or
80A EzRun with 10.5T (sensorless)motor


Thanks in advance for your inputs..

santa its Xmas!! BBB!!

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Post by laneboysrc Tue 4 Dec 2012 - 17:54

I'd recommend going with a 8.5T system. I think it is a good compromise between speed and sense. If it turns out too fast (at first Shocked), simply gear it down and be gentle with the throttle trigger.

I opted for a 10.5T in our 1/10 buggy and wish I had gone 8.5T. For a track like Segar or DIOT 10.5T is plenty, but for bashing you will want more Twisted Evil

I strongly recommend a sensored system though. I run a sensored 10.5T HobbyKing system in our Tamiya buggy and it is a very smooth ride, especially at low speeds; It is as smooth as a brushed motor. Feels really great!
The sensorless Kyosho buggy (Orion 13.5T motor with 45A ESC) that resides with us temporarily and my TT01 drifter with EzRun 5.5T (totally overpowered, waste...) are "rough" due to cogging comparatively. But then again, for mad bashing/drifting you may not care...

Do make sure you spend the extra few bucks on a programming card if it is not included. While the ESC can be set up with the push-button, it is no fun. Things like brake strength and drag brake will need to be adjusted once in a while based on what you do with the car, what surfaces you run on, and your personal preference.

just 2 cents from a noob, Werner
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Post by RCGolf Wed 5 Dec 2012 - 20:25

laneboysrc wrote:I'd recommend going with a 8.5T system. I think it is a good compromise between speed and sense. If it turns out too fast (at first Shocked), simply gear it down and be gentle with the throttle trigger.

I opted for a 10.5T in our 1/10 buggy and wish I had gone 8.5T. For a track like Segar or DIOT 10.5T is plenty, but for bashing you will want more Twisted Evil

I strongly recommend a sensored system though. I run a sensored 10.5T HobbyKing system in our Tamiya buggy and it is a very smooth ride, especially at low speeds; It is as smooth as a brushed motor. Feels really great!
The sensorless Kyosho buggy (Orion 13.5T motor with 45A ESC) that resides with us temporarily and my TT01 drifter with EzRun 5.5T (totally overpowered, waste...) are "rough" due to cogging comparatively. But then again, for mad bashing/drifting you may not care...

Do make sure you spend the extra few bucks on a programming card if it is not included. While the ESC can be set up with the push-button, it is no fun. Things like brake strength and drag brake will need to be adjusted once in a while based on what you do with the car, what surfaces you run on, and your personal preference.

just 2 cents from a noob, Werner

Hi Werner,

Thanks lots for the recommendations. As much as lower turns provides lots of speed on a 8.5T, will there still be sufficient torque say, for wheel spins off the line or donuts etc ? Twisted Evil

What about the ESC? Is it necessary to go 120A? or will 80A be sufficient?
RCGolf
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Post by laneboysrc Wed 5 Dec 2012 - 21:55

Yeah, actually a 8.5T motor delivers more power than 10.5T in terms of Watts, so no worries with wheel spin and donuts. Don't forget that you can change the pinion gear to either go for greater speed (larger pinion) or more acceleration (smaller pinion). Pinion gears are cheap and if you get the opposite end (= the smallest your car can fit, and the largest it can fit) then you have things to play with. Usually you can adjust speed/power by about 20-30% with gearing.

ESC: from reading specs 60A should be sufficient for an 8.5T in offroad use. If you have the money and space go for a more amps as it allows use of faster stuff later.

What was not discussed so far: the biggest jump in power comes from going from 2S to 3S. So if you get an ESC and Motor that is 3S capable then you can just buy a 3S battery later to "turbocharge" your car. However, cooling needs to be dealt with -- or the motor will overheat and burn quickly.
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Post by RCGolf Wed 5 Dec 2012 - 22:25

laneboysrc wrote:
What was not discussed so far: the biggest jump in power comes from going from 2S to 3S. So if you get an ESC and Motor that is 3S capable then you can just buy a 3S battery later to "turbocharge" your car. However, cooling needs to be dealt with -- or the motor will overheat and burn quickly.

Yeah ... this is a very good point. Thanks for bringing this up. bounce

Searching based on the above, I noticed some ESC recommends for example:
Suitable Motor:
With 2S Lipo or 4-6 cells NiMH, 1/10 on-road>=8.5T, 1/10 off-road>=11.5T
With 3S Lipo or 7-9 cells NiMH, 1/10 on-road>=13.5T, 1/10 off-road>=17.5T

So if I do get a 8.5T with this particular ESC, I may not be able to use the same motor later when I do upgrade it with a 3S lipo. Is this interpretation correct?
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