My secondM - LANE Boys RC M06

Just following

Patrick and I built our M06 chassis up today.

The gearbox was in parts tricky to assemble as you have small plastic pieces slotting into other parts that then get screwed on, with the small plastic pieces trying to escape from the screw. In contrast to the TA01 there is also a staggering amount of different type of screws.

We used a metal motor mount as in our M05 the original plastic mount had warped from motor heat -- something I don't want to happen.



The M06 is indeed a rear motor vehicle -- the motor is as much in the back as it can. Will be interesting to see how it drives.



We built our M06 to Medium wheel base 225 mm as we will use the Alfa Romeo Giulia body we bought with the kit as well as the Datsun 510 body we got with our Cup Racer (yes, got one of those as well . Will be running 210 mm bodies and will be built in rear wheel drive configuration).



Tamiya CVDs instead of dog bones. Not necessary, but what the heck...



3 Racing steering rack. Not expensive but well made and even with ball bearings. Sweet and smooth!



The completed chassis:



The stock kit came with friction shocks. We used cheap Yeah Racing alu shocks that RCMart had on sale (same price as the basic Tamiya Super Mini CVA shocks). The shocks were pre-built but without oil and had a full set of tuned springs in the pack. They were easy to fill and seem to work well.



Now for some paint and electronics install. The tires are Yeah Racing drift wheels -- I want to see if this 2 wheel drive thing can drift.



So much to do, so little time! Werner

Cool built! Those alu upgrades are nice! Hurry finished her up!

Woohoo!!

Nice work bro... looking forward to see the paint job!

watching this as I got the same M06 as you. Need to buy upgrades but do not know where to start.

babyboy wrote:Need to buy upgrades but do not know where to start.

(in order of importance, my humble unprofessional experience)
Ball bearings -- cheap kits available
Metal motor mount -- keep the motor sturdy and acts as heat sink (in theory...)
Oil shocks -- Tamiya Super Mini CVA will do, no need to go fancy to have fun

Steering -- nice to have, not really essential as there is slop in the ball ends, A-arms and uprights anyway
CVD -- totally unnecessary for rear wheel drive, pure luxury

If you intend to buy additional bodies get a spare "C" parts tree (identical with M05) that contains the body mounts.

Note: depending on which exact kit you got the included TEU-104BK ESC does not have a BEC (but is LiPo compatible), so you need to either use another ESC or an external BEC. (Or use a high voltage servo and ask the guy with the soldering iron to mod one of the HobbyKing receivers for high voltage compatibility )

Good sources for parts (original Tamiya as well as 3rd party): RCMart and StellaModels.com.hk

laneboysrc wrote:

(in order of importance, my humble unprofessional experience)
Ball bearings -- cheap kits available
Metal motor mount -- keep the motor sturdy and acts as heat sink (in theory...)
Oil shocks -- Tamiya Super Mini CVA will do, no need to go fancy to have fun

Steering -- nice to have, not really essential as there is slop in the ball ends, A-arms and uprights anyway
CVD -- totally unnecessary for rear wheel drive, pure luxury

If you intend to buy additional bodies get a spare "C" parts tree (identical with M05) that contains the body mounts.

Note: depending on which exact kit you got the included TEU-104BK ESC does not have a BEC (but is LiPo compatible), so you need to either use another ESC or an external BEC. (Or use a high voltage servo and ask the guy with the soldering iron to mod one of the HobbyKing receivers for high voltage compatibility )

Good sources for parts (original Tamiya as well as 3rd party): RCMart and StellaModels.com.hk

Thanks for the recomendation. I got the same M06 as you. Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint.Will start to order my parts. Thanks for highlighting the BEC. Didn't thot of that. Thot its the same as other ESC which is plug and play like my old TT01D. So what I need now is a BEC for the RX.

@babyboy

Will you be using the HK310? If yes then you can do without BEC if you get a High Voltage servo. I can modify your receiver to be "high voltage compatible". Free service (the first one is always free :-))

If yes I prepare one of my receivers and we can swap on a next meet.

If you want to use a normal servo HobbyKing has cheap 3A BECs. Currently in transit to me so no hands-on experience yet.
Do not get the RCMart Fitec (for Feetech) BEC though, that one is not very good and can only drive old simple analog servos.

Wow Bro nice looking built there... You bought the hop-ups separate?

Thanks for the offer. I have run out of rx and will be getting a few more fr hobbyking. So at the same time I will get the bec. RC fleet is growing so need to prepare.(heard abt the F1) New experience for me, will try out the bec. Will certainly approach you for more advice. Thanks!

Zax13 wrote:You bought the hop-ups separate?

Yep, all from RCMart. Also got similar items for our M-05 but haven't had time to install them yet.
Too many cars, too little time

One down, many more to go. I finished the Alfa!

I am using the Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC that came with the kit. It doesn't have a BEC so I am using a high voltage servo and modified the receiver to tolerate 2S LiPo directly.







Patrick chose green, so we made it Tamiya Metallic Green PS17. Love it, suits the car very well. The decals were much harder to put on than I initially thought, especially the window -- each window is made up of 4 decal strips.

Just came back from a test drive. The rear is really heavy and bottoms out on every bump. It drives very different than an M-05, but not bad at all. With the Tamiya Super Slick the rear is planted well when you accelerate out of a corner, but steps out easily when you brake into the corner.
Fun and cheap little machine!

Next up: finishing the Datsun 510 body...

oh man! this looks sweet!!

the venom is getting more lethal!!!!

Nice paint scheme, hmm when will I start on mine...

Great colour choice ... suits the car. Can't wait for our next touring bash meet.

boolean21 wrote:oh man! this looks sweet!!

the venom is getting more lethal!!!!

Go get one mate!

laneboysrc wrote:One down, many more to go. I finished the Alfa!

I am using the Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC that came with the kit. It doesn't have a BEC so I am using a high voltage servo and modified the receiver to tolerate 2S LiPo directly.

Next up: finishing the Datsun 510 body...

Nice car mate.

In regards the esc and bec thingy you pointed out and tho it sounds alien to me, what ive learnt is that the 104BK ESC will cut out my servo input when throttle EPA set at max and gun the throttle foward max!!! Thats what happining to my car last bashing...well, real bashing at the walls whereby the steering is locked and couldnt respond to steering inputs! I tested by trimming down the throttle EPA less 5% problem is gone...any idea whats dat related to? I still have a nib 105BK not in use yet.

laneboysrc wrote:One down, many more to go. I finished the Alfa!

I am using the Tamiya TEU-104BK ESC that came with the kit. It doesn't have a BEC so I am using a high voltage servo and modified the receiver to tolerate 2S LiPo directly.

Next up: finishing the Datsun 510 body...

Nice car mate.

In regards the esc and bec thingy you pointed out and tho it sounds alien to me, what ive learnt is that the 104BK ESC will cut out my servo input when throttle EPA set at max and gun the throttle foward max!!! Thats what happining to my car last bashing...well, real bashing at the walls whereby the steering is locked and couldnt respond to steering inputs! I tested by trimming down the throttle EPA less 5% problem is gone...any idea whats dat related to? I still have a nib 105BK not in use yet.

Marpek wrote:
In regards the esc and bec thingy you pointed out and tho it sounds alien to me, what ive learnt is that the 104BK ESC will cut out my servo input when throttle EPA set at max and gun the throttle foward max!!! Thats what happining to my car last bashing...well, real bashing at the walls whereby the steering is locked and couldnt respond to steering inputs! I tested by trimming down the throttle EPA less 5% problem is gone...any idea whats dat related to? I still have a nib 105BK not in use yet.

Thanks for pushing the nerd button

First, the 104BK does not have a BEC, so it outputs the battery voltage directly.
Unless you are using a High Voltage servo and a receiver that can tolerate more than 6V, you are stressing the electronic components to the point that they may fail any time. For size and price reasons the components are tightly spec'ed, for example they use input capacitors that can tolerate only 6.3V (LiPo is 8.4 fully charged), and those blow quickly if you go over their rating. When they fail they either just don't function as a capacitor properly any more, or they short circuit (magic smoke )

How to tell whether servo and receiver are high voltage (HV) compatible? Look at the specs. Since this is a "special" feature manufactures make a point to highlight HV capability. For example Feetech, Hitech, Savox, and others makes HV servos (clearly marked as such) and normal servos (4.8-6V only). Receivers like the Futaba R2104GF tolerate up to 2S LiPo, and again it is highlighted by Futaba clearly on the spec sheet. GT3x and cheap HobbyKing 2.4 GHz are up to 6V only. And they really can not take more, for example their voltage regulator is rated at "7V absolute maximum rating". Any higher and all bets are off.
(At this point someone usually says: "but it works on my other car!" Yes, good luck If you exceed maximum ratings the part can fail at any point in time, that doesn't mean that it will fail. If you are lucky it works fine. Because of luck, not because of engineering.)

If your servo cuts out when you give full throttle that could mean that a voltage drop causes the servo to glitch, possibly because some components like the capacitor on the input or the internal voltage regulator are already damaged. Hard to diagnose without measuring though.

There is an additional problem with the 104BK (and 105BK): Tamiya built in a "fuse" between the battery terminal and the power output towards the electronics. This fuse is a "resettable fuse", meaning when it goes off it recovers when you let it cool down. Unfortunately it is only rated at 750mA, which is too low for a modern high speed, high torque digital servo
So while the 105BK does have a BEC, it still shuts down the servo if you operate it too much. RCGolf has this issue -- luckily only when holding the car in the air and turning left-right quickly for a long time.

And one more issue: the 104BK has a "low voltage cut off", but it is set too low for LiPo unfortunately (5.4V). Not sure about the 105BK, the manual doesn't say anything. So please use an external LiPo alarm to protect your batteries.


The only trivial fix without modifying the guts of the electronics is to use an external BEC -- but it must be directly wired to the battery and not through the ESC as you need to bypass the fuse.

[For our M06 I changed the fuse in the 104BK to a 1.6A type; I am using a high voltage servo, and I swapped the voltage regulator in the receiver to a version that can handle 10V easily]

If I can be of any help sorting out your car let me know!

Goodness gracious me!!! Ive been running my brushed rigs with the 104BK even with lipos dodnt experienced any magic smoke till now...even with the 101bk during my older drifting days!!! Yes im maybe abit lucky, if not very lucky till now! I always thought as long as the ESChas the 2 core red plug that could be plug into any reciever thats a BEC.

So far after ive sorted out my issues with the EPA adjustments I ran my M05 with a full pack it didnt gave me any problems anymore... only the car handles like on rails when taking corners which is so much fun now. Will switched to 105BK just be safe as me not using any HV high speed servo...as the 05 doesnt need it.

Well professor, many thanks for the pointers, and the above long and detailed explanations makes me the gundo understands more clearly now... and till our next mini bashing!!!

Recently things move in the right direction -- as in "RC projects get finished" rather than "more projects pile up". After the Alfa I finished the Datsun 510 that I got with our HPI Cup Racer. Bros RCGolf and Zax13 have the same body, so no need to introduce it.



The body has light buckets included that fit standard 5mm and 3mm LEDs. It is the easiest car to light up that I encountered so far, and it looks awesome.



Naturally the trademark LANE Boys RC light controller was added, allowing for realistic switching of lights.



The Japanese license plate was found on Flickr, scaled to size on the computer and printed as photo in our neighborhood lab.



The color is Tamiya 'Camel Yellow', which is actually more orange than yellow in my book.



The HPI body comes with four shapes of rear view mirrors, and wipers for both right- and left-hand drive.



With the lights it is soooo much fun driving the car in the evening!

Nice updates!

Since I am running a Tamiya body on the HPI Cup Racer, I need to run a HPI body on the M-06  









This body is of lower quality than the Datsun 510 or the Porsche 911. It doesn't come with accessories, the exhaust, mirror and wipers I've installed come from the left overs of the other HPI bodies. Wheel-base is 225 mm.

The light buckets are from Lexan like in the Porsche, but they don't fit very well and light leaks everywhere. The white paint doesn't help either, so there is a lot of glow. Not exactly brilliant.

The rear section is a separate piece similar to the Datsun and the Porsche. On the BMW this piece was much easier to fit though than the other cars. The rear spoiler is a tiny Lexan piece, difficult to cut, and is secured with two screws and nuts.

The rear bumper comes as a silver sticker, but given the shape I doubt it will stay on for long so used liquid mask and painted the bumper. It looks great; time well spent.

The car looks very scale -- just search for photos of the original on the Internet and compare!

Very nicely done bro!!
These old models are really attractive!!

Very scale and cool indeed. One of my favorite 225mm bodies out there. I got what you mean by the light leakages. Perhaps some liquid mask at the underside and around the light pods to "plug" the leaks ?

Anyway, nicely done on the painting and decal works.

Thanks for the kind words, everyone!

RCGolf wrote:. I got what you mean by the light leakages. Perhaps some liquid mask at the underside and around the light pods to "plug" the leaks ?

Indeed that may work. I was also thinking of spraying a layer of silver, which blocks the light well yet does not darken the white too much. Or paste some white cloth tape around the area. Need to build more cars to experiment